In Oklahoma, “Mediterranean” has become a catch-all for everything from hummus and gyros to falafel and kebabs. Istanbul Grill House Cafe gets considerably more specific, with a Turkish menu built around wood-fired breads, halal kebabs, vibrant meze, haydari, Turkish pide, lahmacun and several versions of künefe for dessert. Those unfamiliar with the Edmond dining scene would be positively shooketh to know the embarrassment of riches that is the suburb’s Mediterranean food scene. From OOZIE to Turkish Delight and from Jerusalem to Bethlehem, Edmond might as well be a Blue Zone. As I watched young families and cute couples filter in early on a recent Friday evening, it became clear that there was room for one more. Since opening in January, Istanbul Grill House Cafe has wowed reviewers and influencers with its traditional Turkish fare. The outside raised my expectations, as unassuming exteriors often lead to the best food in any ZIP Code. The interior was more upscale than I had imagined. With high-end, comfortable seating, the space moves easily from a casual lunch spot to a dinner destination. As a certified hummus snob, I had to try the classic, house-made hummus and wood-fired bread. The texture here was thicker than I’m used to, and that thickness seemed to hold a preternatural amount of flavor. The wood-fired bread also departed from the standard-issue pita. Golden brown on the outside and crusted with sesame seeds, it was much more interesting, and the sesame complemented the hummus beautifully. I haven’t had nearly as much zucchini as I would have liked this summer, so I knew it would be on my docket long before I opened the menu. The warm vegetable pancakes paired nicely with the cold, garlicky haydari. The pancakes’ spongy texture might appeal to some, but I think I prefer a more traditional mücver. Moving on to mains, I loved the veggie moussaka. Thin slices of eggplant, zucchini and potato are layered with marinara, béchamel, mozzarella and Parmesan for an indulgent, satisfying dish. The veggies still had enough bite—something I’ve never quite figured out how to do when making moussaka at home. I’m sure it has something to do with getting all the water out of the eggplant and zucchini, and Istanbul has it down pat. The béchamel was truly the star here, perhaps a result of Chef Hakan’s years of experience in Michelin-starred restaurants. The grilled branzino is beautifully simple: tender, flaky fish beneath crisp skin, with lemon, thyme and olive oil enhancing its clean, subtly sweet flavor rather than overwhelming it. The accouterments were on point, as all the flavors and textures worked well together.The menu offers plenty of reasons to return, especially for diners who want more distinctly Turkish dishes. Pide, sometimes described as Turkish pizza, is a boat-shaped flatbread baked in the wood-fired oven. Istanbul Grill House offers several versions, including ground lamb and beef, cheese, Turkish pepperoni, mushroom and egg, and vegetable. Lahmacun takes a thinner approach, with crisp flatbread topped with minced lamb and beef, vegetables, herbs, tomato paste and pepper paste. Moussaka at Instanbul. Photo by Julie Porter Scott. The grill side of the menu includes döner, köfte and Adana kebabs. Döner—seasoned meat cooked vertically and shaved into thin slices—is offered here in both chicken and a lamb-and-beef version. Adana kebab takes its name from the southern Turkish city and traditionally features seasoned ground meat formed around a skewer. All that to say, I’ll be back to explore more of the menu, which piqued my interest and is reasonably priced for feeding my family. I happened to be sitting near a family with young children. The kids were incredulous as their parents read from the menu, pointing out items they thought the kids would like. There were crossed arms, and there was eye-rolling. They could be forgiven their quiet grumpiness on a sweltering Friday, early in the infernally hot start to the school year.A few minutes after the appetizers arrived, I noticed their table had grown very quiet, save for a few surprised murmurs. By the time the entrées appeared, the kids had stopped asking what everything was. They happily, almost greedily, snapped up the proffered bites and nodded approvingly. A manager, hands clasped behind his back, stopped to ask how their meal was. With her hunger now handled, the more gregarious of the two rattled off her favorite bites like a good little food critic. Turning to her brother, she said, “And Louie … he liked EVERYTHING!”I think Louie and I would get along famously. The post Beyond Mediterranean appeared first on Oklahoma Gazette. ...read more read less