In this take on esquites, the chef Elijah G. Deleon turned his childhood snack of grilled corn mixed with mayonnaise, cotija, chile flakes and lime into a plated salad at Rustic Canyon in Santa Monica, Calif., where he's the executive chef. A simple from-scratch aioli dresses charred kernels, adding the zing of garlic and Dijon, while sliced shishito peppers add a fresh, grassy crispness. The more classic cotija or queso fresco taste great here, but Mr. Deleon's swap of aged cheddar is a fun twist. The fine crumbles bring a rich sweet nuttiness to the mix of sweet corn, tart lime and spicy chiles flakes. ...read more read less