The epic seafood boil at Catahoula can be upgraded with lobster. | Tierney Plumb/Eater A slice of the Bayou landed on the banks of the Anacostia River in mid-May, breathing new life into the space that formerly housed the All-Purpose pizzeria for nearly a decade. Catahoula is named for the s potted dog of Louisiana, and coincidentally, its state tree, the bald cypress, has been growing out front at the 79 Potomac Avenue SE address for years in apparent wait. The seafood boil ($55) is the star of the show. A huge head-on Maine lobster (+$55) shields a bounty of coiled Louisiana crawfish, juicy chunks of spicy Andouille sausage, crab legs, shrimp, and corn on the cob — all doused with a hefty helping of Cajun seasoning. Executive chef Thomas Malz, who expertly marries rustic Louisiana cooking with French techniques, has deep family and culinary connections to the city dating back to Hurricane Katrina.  What to order Start with Catahoula’s namesake broiled oysters ($22) cooked with toothsome chunks of North Country bacon, watercress, and Pernod cream sauce.  Gumbo ($17) is a nicely textured compilation of chicken, Andouille sausage, dirty rice, and okra, all topped with a dollop of potato aioli. Lobster sauce does double duty as a coconutty accoutrement to tender catfish. The entree ($27) comes with a side of maque choux, a richer answer to succotash that could stand on its own. Piping-hot beignets ($9), with a doughnut-like center that brings Cafe du Monde to mind, arrive under a gluttonous blanket of powdered sugar. As a carrot cake connoisseur, I get why its 14-layer take ($15) — creatively stacked like a tube and capped off with drippy caramel — is its top-selling dessert.  Soft Leidenheimer bread, baked in NOLA since the Industrial Revolution, is the ultimate po’ boy building block – and almost outshines the fried oysters in the sandwich itself ($26). Tales of the Cocktail vet attendee Rachel Sergi, who’s worked at a sea of bars in D.C., consulted on NOLA drinks like a strong but not-too-sweet Hurricane and a frozen chicory coffee cocktail (something you don’t see in D.C. too often).  The vibe The reinvented dining room resembles an old-school, no-rules New Orleans brasserie, where a group’s gospel-styled rendition of “Happy Birthday” broke out at a nearby wooden table on a random Tuesday night. Props to the provided “trash cans” (Miller Lite buckets), assortment of cracking tools, and neatly packaged clean-up sets (plastic lobster bibs, gloves, and hand wipes) for each messy seafood boil. The pick-your-own adventure at Catahoula also includes three outdoor dining options: a peaceful patio with panoramic views of the river, a livelier alfresco situation on the side with communal seating and big TVs under a canopy of red bulbs; and an upstairs terrace that nods to Bacchanal Wine in New Orleans with a fridge full of wine bottles, its own bar, umbrellas, and slick red stools overlooking the Frederick Douglass Bridge.  The look The restaurant leans into “America’s most haunted city” of New Orleans via intentionally flickering chandeliers and a nook crammed with all the curious oddities one would find along Bourbon Street. Insider tip This condensed dining stretch of the Capitol Riverfront acts as a one-stop shop for a well-rounded night out, complete with a cool new barbecue-and-pool hall place (Suzie Q’s); a reliable happy hour spot (El Rey); and a taproom (Solace Outpost). ...read more read less