Chefs Richard Ly and Chris McKenna began speaking openly about their concept new concept, Kaizume, about a year ago, and it’s been much anticipated since. Ly, originally from Dallas, was part of the opening teams for concepts like Edmond’s Cafe Icon Sushi Grill and Hal Smith’s Jimmy B’s Cu linary + Krafted before opening his own restaurant, the beloved northtwest OKC gem Awaji Izakaya. McKenna, perhaps best known for his time as executive chef at Packard’s, has collaborated with Ly several times, and those familiar with the work of either were excited by the prospect, and fans followed the progress closely.Kaizume blends the Japanese philosophy of kaizen—continuous improvement—with an emphasis on beauty, precision and satisfaction. On paper, the restaurant could easily be described as a sushi restaurant. There is sashimi, nigiri and a selection of specialty rolls. But a closer look quickly reveals much more: There are steaks and seafood mains, and French techniques and ingredients appear throughout the menu. Robuchon potatoes share space with tuna tartare and A5 Wagyu. Kaizume appears less interested in fitting neatly into an existing category than creating one of its own. “This is a little bit different from Awaji,” Chef Richard Ly told me. “It’s sushi, and it’s kind of a French fusion type of deal. We just want to be different from everybody else.” While many sushi restaurants rely heavily on tradition and restraint, Kaizume leans into presentation, layering ingredients to create dishes that feel like an experience. It is a menu that encourages people to point at neighboring tables and ask, “What is that?” The most obvious example may be the crispy pompano fish boat, a whole-fish presentation with crispy breading over buttery, mildly flavored fish, served with a fire sauce. Throughout the menu, dishes blend Japanese techniques with influences pulled from far-flung culinary traditions. Parmesan togarashi fries bring Japanese spice to a steakhouse staple. Haricots verts with hibachi-style butter and Robuchon potatoes are among the shareable sides. Chicken katsu piccata combines Japanese breaded chicken with a sauce more commonly associated with Italian and French cooking. The outstanding pom kampachi is amberjack with pomegranate ponzu, lemon, Fresno chile, yuzu and olive oil. The thought that ran through my head as I ate my first bite of the delicate amberjack was simple: “I could eat this every day of my life.” The result is a menu that reads less like a conventional sushi restaurant and more like a sushi bar, a French bistro and a modern steakhouse had a baby. That blending of ideas is not accidental; it is the result of Ly’s collaboration with operating and culinary partner McKenna. The structure divides responsibilities while doubling the creativity and depth of experience. “McKenna does most of the cooked items, and we collaborate on what we should do,” Ly explained. The partnership did not begin with Kaizume. The two chefs previously worked together through omakase experiences at Awaji. “We worked together creating a seven-course or an eight-course menu together,” he said. “We collaborated then, and we worked well together.” That history helps explain the menu’s unusual confidence. Rather than feeling like separate ideas assembled under one roof, Kaizume feels unified. There is a shared willingness to borrow techniques and ingredients from different traditions without becoming overly precious about categories. Guests can build an experience around traditional nigiri and sashimi offerings such as bluefin tuna, hamachi and Hokkaido scallop, and classic rolls are available for diners seeking familiarity. Signature rolls push well beyond standard combinations, and many have luxury ingredients. The Beverly Hillbillies combines tempura shrimp, spicy tuna, goat cheese, cucumber, seared A5 Wagyu, tobiko and gold flakes, with optional Kaluga caviar. This menu eschews cream cheese, deep-fried rolls and many of the entry-level sushi staples that continue to populate metro-area menus. We’ve all been eating sushi long enough—we don’t need our fresh fish served with cream cheese anywhere other than alongside lox. The beverage program, run by Sonia Guadiana, slots in perfectly, with drinks built around Japanese ingredients and influences. The Tokyo Negroni incorporates Japanese gin and yuzu liqueur. The Misty Petal combines vodka, yuzu, St-Germain and blueberry ginger honey, while the Kaizume Old Fashioned uses Japanese whisky. The excellent sake menu offers everything from approachable pours to super-premium offerings like Tatenokawa and Ryujin Namazume. The wine list similarly balances recognizable labels with bottles that encourage experimentation. Taken together, Kaizume really does align with the concept of kaizen. Two popular local chefs who have been honing their craft for a few decades and a talented bar manager team up to further improve on concepts and ideas they have explored elsewhere. With equal parts skill and imagination, they’re elevating what’s possible with sushi without relying on novelty—or cream cheese. The post Roll Model appeared first on Oklahoma Gazette. ...read more read less