Bakery confidential: Into the buttery heart of Pella
May 08, 2026
Would you like a Dutch letter? “S,” please. (Photo: Travel Iowa)
By Tej Dhawan
Centuries ago the Dutch sailed the world in search of spices. These days, during Tulip Time, Iowans travel to Pella in search of stunning tulip displays around town, corporate headquarters and the Central College camp
us. On the town square, visitors keep a watchful eye on the snaking queues for Dutch letters, poffertjes and other Dutch delicacies at shops and bakeries.
I first encountered some of these delicacies through a mixture of surprise and luck. As a foreign student at Central, I was adopted by a local host family who invited me to stay with them during Christmas break. Finally free after months of school, I spent the first day taking photos outside in the snow (which I’d never seen back home in India) and admiring the Christmas lights around the town square before going to bed.
And then a surprise: I heard a knock on the door at 3 a.m., followed by Ralph Jaarsma’s voice. “Son, you’re at a baker’s house. It’s time to get moving.”
Bleary-eyed, I joined the family as we made our way to the Jaarsma Bakery, where everyone assumed daily chores. Giant ovens warmed up the kitchen where the crew mixed flour, sugar and butter. The dough was kneaded, filled and shaped into various forms and placed onto rotating shelves in the ovens. This was my first exposure to big ovens and their magical powers.
Smelling the chemistry at play and seeing the whole bustling process felt like peeking into Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory. Dutch letters curved into S-shapes. Sugar spangled pillows of flaky pastry. Goodies glistened on trays readied for display and packaging. Yes, even snacking on the wayward “mistakes” was wonderful.
Though we returned home by 10 a.m., that experience with the family connected me deeply to Pella, both the college and the community at large. Even now, I still maintain a relationship with my alma mater, where meetings often include a platter of Dutch letters and steaming cups of coffee.
The memory of staying with Elaine and Ralph Jaarsma — getting to know their extended family, experiencing life inside their historic bakery and forging a connection to Dutch baked goods — remains with me all these years later. I rarely pass up the opportunity to grab my favorite puff pillows, and I encourage my fellow Indians to shop at the Jaarsma Bakery for bags of fresh Dutch rusks. They’re the perfect complement for chai, just like the fresh ones from India.
Contributor Tej Dhawan is the co-founder and managing director of the investment group Plains Angels.
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