Fresno just got a serious upgrade. Award-winning pitmaster, Fresno native Matt Horn has officially opened Horn Barbecue at Cedar and Ashlan in the Granite Park Center, and I had the chance to get an early look and taste. Short version: this isn’t just another BBQ spot. This is destination-leve l barbecue, and it absolutely changes the conversation around smoked meats in the Central Valley. First impressions matter — and Horn nails it Before you even walk inside, there’s a moment. Out front, the bull statues immediately catch your eye and make for a killer photo op. They set the tone before you ever smell the smoke. Bold, confident, unapologetic. Exactly what you’d expect from a place that takes barbecue seriously. Inside, the space is rustic and beautiful at the same time. It’s a very large building with multiple patios, open and airy, but still warm. The design feels intentional without trying too hard. This is a place built for families, friends, long tables, and lingering conversations over trays of food. What makes great barbecue, really? Great BBQ isn’t just about throwing meat in a smoker and hoping for the best. It’s about: Time and patience — low and slow, no shortcuts Fire management — controlling smoke so it enhances, not overwhelms Texture — bark on the outside, tenderness inside Balance — salt, fat, smoke, and seasoning all working together Horn Barbecue understands this at a level you can taste in every bite. The food: where things get serious I tried a bit of everything, because that’s what you do when you’re at a place like this. My go-to test at any BBQ joint is brisket. I’ve had brisket all over the country… Texas, Arkansas, Tennessee, you name it. The brisket at Horn Barbeque is easily some of the best I’ve ever had. The bark is dark, smoky, and peppery. No knife is needed, the fat is balanced, and the meat is juicy. This is elite-level brisket. But here’s the surprise. My son usually orders the pulled pork sandwich when we travel together, so of course, I had to order one to report back to him. I’m not exaggerating when I say this: it’s the best pulled pork sandwich I’ve ever had. Heaping portions of pulled pork, topped with coleslaw, everything you want from a BBQ sandwich. Smoky, juicy, balanced. It absolutely stole the show. Then there were the sides… which, honestly, deserve their own spotlight. Collard greens: cooked perfectly and actually spicy. Not “BBQ spicy,” but for real spicy in the best way. Pit beans: complex flavors, sweet yet tangy, slow-cooked, with a rich smoke flavor. You can taste the time that went into them. Mac cheese: on another level, a true showstopper. Super creamy with a unique flavor, sharp cheddar, possibly a gouda, and special seasonings I still can’t quite figure out. Which means I’ll clearly need to go back. Often. Oh my goodness, I almost forgot to tell you about the ribs! Not simply “fall-off-the-bone,” but rather tender with a slight bite, boasting a deep, caramelized bark, and a clean separation from the bone when bitten. Delicious! In fact I ordered a second half rack to go and just had them for lunch today before writing this review. And dessert? The banana pudding is a winner. Pure nostalgia for me. It tastes just like my grandmother used to make it, with plenty of Nilla wafers. Comfort food done right. Awards, recognition, and why it matters Matt Horn didn’t just wake up one day and decide to open restaurants. Horn Barbecue has earned national recognition and multiple awards for a reason. The accolades matter because they reflect consistency, discipline, and respect for the craft. You can feel that pride in this Fresno location. This isn’t a watered-down expansion. This is the real deal. Service and the overall experience The service was polite, attentive, and welcoming. No attitude. No ego. Just people who clearly care about what they’re serving and who they’re serving it to. And that matters. Final thoughts BBQ just changed in Fresno. Full stop. Horn Barbecue brings something special to our city, not just great food, but a standard. Congratulations to Matt Horn and the entire family. Fresno is better because you’re here. I can’t wait to get back and try the hot links next. If you love barbecue, or if you think you love barbecue, this needs to be at the top of your list. Horn Barbeque – 4020 N Cedar Ave, Fresno, CA 93726 website https://www.hornbarbecue.com Grand opening Tuesday, January 20th at 11am. Jason Farris ...read more read less